MustangSteve's

BALL BEARING CLUTCH PEDAL CONVERSION
INSTALLATION  INSTRUCTIONS
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Totally worn out, but still fixable
Bearing Conversion Kit Parts
A     (2)  Bearing support rings
 
B     (2)  Sealed ballbearings
 
C     (2)  Brake pedal spacers
 
D     (2)  Brake pedal plastic bushings
 
E     (2)  Pedal shaft shims
 
F      (1)  Brake pedal pin plastic bushing
A
D
F
C
B
E
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1
Remove existing pot metal bushings
Grind off tabs or melt it with a torch
Clamp the pedal support in a vise with the sides horizontal.

Hold the ring concentric with the hole. (Does not require perfection, but the closer the
better).

Tack weld the ring in four places.
Grind two of the old plastic bushings so the flange is only about 1/8" high.
They will be used to temporarily center the big washers perfectly on the shaft.
If you do not have old ones, several wraps of masking tape will do the job.
Grind to expose clean metal for welding
Place a thin washer on the pedal shaft, tack weld, then grind the weld lower than the face of
the washer.  This is not required, but I always do it so I cannot forget to put the washer on the
shaft before the bearing
The spring is a shop aid I made to take the place of the brake pedal while welding the big washers in place.  It is not required, as you can just hold them against
the side while you tack weld them in place.  Washers do not HAVE to be welded at all, but it does simplify assembly when under the dash..
4
6
5
3
2
Finalize the welding of the
rings to the pedal support
once you are certain the
large washers are held
concentric with the bearing
retainer rings.
Place two plastic flanged bushings in the
brake pedal and check for fit between the
two large washers
Tack weld each large washer in two places, then file
off any slag from their faces.

Remove and discard the plastic bushing "tools"
Grind the sides of the brake pedal if needed so it fits smoothly between the big
washers.  Be sure to radius the tube so it does not abrade the plastic bushings.
Clamp in vise
as shown to
ease
assembly
Test fit a bearing in
each ring to ensure
fit.  If too tight from
weld warpage, grind
as required until it just
fits.
IMPORTANT: Air Cool
Only.      Do not cool with
water.
Test fit bearings and shaft
into washers.
Washer hole can be enlarged
with die grinder if needed.
8
There must be room for
the washer so the cotter
pin or clip will fit without
binding.
7
Check for shaft length
with brake pedal, plastic
bushings and bearings in
place.
Grind the outer flat surface of the
retainer ring to obtain more room
for the washer.  This is rarely
necessary, but if required, this is
how to do it.
Washer fitment shown.  
Do not omit washer or
bearing will rub cotter pin.
Assemble all parts while held in vise.  Check pedals for proper alignment.  
Use a large crescent wrench to bend pedals back to original shape.  Some
are way off, some are perfect and some are just slightly off, like this set.  
Minor tweaking on the clutch pedal got them perfectly straight and level.
NOTE: Cars having power brakes typically will have a longer clutch pedal so
they rarely sit even like these 65/66 pedals.  Be sure the pedals are level.
9
The black plastic
flanged bushing goes
on the brake pedal
connection to the
master cylinder rod or
booster.
Install both bearings
on the clutch pedal
shaft and assemble so
the washers are held
as shown.