Granada Disc Brake Conversion for Classic Mustangs
|This disc brake swap will work on all 64-1/2 to 73 Ford Mustangs as well as any
other mid size Ford using the same type of front suspension.
|Granada Proportioning Valve
(see below for plumbing
|Part One - What You Will Need
|The disc brakes shown here are from a 1975 to 1980 Granada, Versailles, Monarch, Maverick, or Comet. The ones you find in
a wrecking yard probably will not look this clean. Look for rotors that are marked with MIN. THICKNESS .810", and a single
piston caliper that is attached with a sliding retainer held in place by one bolt, usually with an allen head. All the above cars
are REAR STEER, meaning they have the tie rods located aft of the front wheels, instead of in front of the wheels. Note:
Versailles disc brakes use a larger diameter lower ball joint stud, and require the use of an adapter to be able to bolt up to
the Mustang lower ball joint. (more on that later) Caution: There are other Ford brakes that LOOK similar to the Granada
discs, but have rotors that are 1" thick or thicker. Those will not fit a Mustang. If you have a set of brakes that look similar
to these, but has a rotor thickness of 1" or more, those brakes will NOT work on your Mustang or other classic Ford.
|Start out with removal of your drum brake spindles and outer tie rods, master cylinder and brake
distribution block. This is a good time to replace upper and lower ball joints if needed. Upper A-frame
removal is not required unless you will also be replacing the upper A-frame bushings or spring saddle
perch. Spring removal is NOT REQUIRED unless the upper A-frames are to be removed
|Part Three - Disc Brake Installation
|Part Two - Modification of Steering Stops
|Part Five - Master Cylinder Installation
|Part Four - Proportioning Valve Installation
|Part Ten - Alignment
|Part Eight - Tie Rod Installation
|Granada Disc Brakes
|ï¿¿You will need the following parts from the donor car:
Spindles, backing plates, rotors, calipers, caliper mounting hardware (which consists of flat spring, slide clamp and
attaching bolt), the rubber brake hoses, the frame brackets where the rubber hoses mate up to the steel lines at the frame
rail, the threaded flare nuts from that same fitting (they are a unique size), the proportioning valve along with all it's flare
nuts intact, and any steel brake lines that have the coiled wire wrapped around them. The coiled wrap will be removed
and installed on your new steel lines, so just cut the tubes with side cutter pliers for quick and easy removal. Same for the
proportioning valve. Do not try to loosen the flare nuts while removing the valve, just cut the tubes about 1" away from
the valve. That way, you can use a box end wrench to remove the nuts when you get home. Take note of which fittings on
the valve went to where. If the donor car has no proportioning valve available, get one from any mid sized Ford car or
Mustang with front discs and rear drums. Try to get the valve from a car that still has brake fluid in the system to avoid
purchasing one with dried out seals.
You will NOT need the ball joints or the upper a-frame. In some cases the outer tie rod ends can be utilized, get them only
if in perfect condition. If your car is a 65-66, 6 cylinder Mustang, don't bother getting the tie rods.
More on the tie rod issue later...
New Brake Parts that you may consider when doing this installation:
Pads, Rebuilt calipers, Rotors, Hoses, Wheel bearings, Cotter pins, Hardware, Tie rods (see Part Eight)
You may also need Tie rod adapter bushings (see Part Eight)
Also required will be brake fluid, master cylinder (if being replaced) and new steel brake lines.
Tools will include various sizes of SAE sockets and box end wrenches, SAE inverted flare tools, allen wrench, adjustable
wrench, needle nose pliers, SAE inverted flare tube flare tools, and possibly a small tubing bender.
|Caliper Attaching Hardware
|Use your original Mustang pushrod with manual disc brakes when using
Maverick master cylinder
Ft bowl = rear brakes
Rear bowl = front brakes
Bench bleed master cylinder before installing.
|Brakes won't bleed properly? Be sure you have the calipers on the right side of the car. The bleeder
screws should point straight rearward, NOT UP...
|These various sized fittings are available at
PepBoys. They have the correct ends for the
Maverick Master Cylinder. FedHillUSA also
carries any size tube nut you could ever need.
I HATE ADAPTERS! They look like a botched
installation and provide more potential for
|Part Six - Brake Line Flaring and Installation
|Part Seven - Brake Bleeding
|65-66 with Granada spindles - stock A-frames Caster 0 Camber 0 Toe 1/8" IN
" " Lowered " +3 0 0
67-73 use stock specs, unless lowered. Lowered cars need more caster typically.
This in not gospel, but I have had good luck with these. If you have a 65-66 that is lowered, you WILL be able to tell
these spindles steer differently and are prone to severe bumpsteer. That is the reason for the zero toe. If you have
a choice, use original, same year as car, Mustang spindles and disc brakes. The car will steer and corner better.
|Part Nine - Wheel Fitment
|65-66 Mustang Steering
|This edge is the one to trim
|Later model Mustangs may be different
in design and some do not require
|To MustangSteve's Home Page
(lots of neat MustangStuff)
|Be sure to check out MustangSteve's FYI FORD Question and
Answer Forum at
|Removing the Old Pushrod
From the Master Cylinder
|Pry against Ears of Master Cylinder With 2
It is tight, but it WILL come out.
|Clamp Pushrod in Vise
|REAR Bowl of
|FRONT Bowl of
|This switch is used to ground the brake
warning light when the valve senses a
difference in pressure between the front and
|Best place to mount the hose bracket is
mid-way front to rear under the control arm.
The hose is held to this bracket with a spring
|DRIVER SIDE OF CAR SHOWN
|Anti-rattle clip goes to the
rear of the inner pad
|Bleeder points to REAR of car!
|Tabs on each end of outer pad must clamp tightly on caliper or the pad will rattle
and drive you nuts! **