BRAKES Granada Disc Brake Conversion CLICK HERE to visit my GRANADA BRAKE INSTALLATION PAGE Tandem (Dual Piston) Master Cylinder Conversion on Cars With Disc Brakes Use master cylinder from 74 Maverick with NON-POWER disc brakes. The ports are on the correct side and the bore diameter is just right. Get a brand new one (about $75) Rebuilt ones last about 6 months and used ones are a waste of time. You MUST also install the combination/proportioning valve from the Maverick or other 68 & up disc brake equipped Ford product, from a Mustang to a Granada or equivalent. Preferably, get a valve from a car that still has fluid in the brake system. They are prone to leakage when they get dry. Transfer the rod from the old master cylinder to the new dual piston master. Now, for the plumbing: The front port on the master cylinder goes to the inlet for the rear brakes on the combination valve. The outlet port from that connection goes to the rear steel brake line going to the rear axle. There is plenty of flex in that steel line to fit the comb. valve directly to it. I usually install the comb. valve vertically right behind the shock tower, bolted to the inner fender. Make the first connection to the rear steel line and then position the comb. valve for “best fit”. All other connections can be made up from that position. The rear port on the master cylinder goes to any one of the three connections on the other end of the comb. valve, where the three form a “tee”. Since the three ports are just a connection, you can plumb to the easiest port. The other two ports on the comb. valve go to each of the front brake lines. You will probably have to fabricate some new 3/16” steel lines. You will need a double-inverted-flare flaring set to do this. That is not the same as a household type flare kit you would use for a sink or something. Be sure to “bench bleed” the master cylinder before installation, than bleed all brakes after installation, starting from the farthest away from the master cylinder and work your way towards it. Sell the old proportioning valve from the Mustang brakes to someone who wants to be concours correct. It will likely finance this whole job. How To Take The Rattle Out Of Granada Disc Brakes When a Mustang is converted to Granada or Maverick disc brakes, sometimes a very distinct rattle is heard when driving the car over even the slightest bumps. That rattle is caused by the brake pads rattling around in the caliper. First, the inboard pad: The inboard pad is held in place by the caliper bracket and has a small piece of spring steel clipped onto one end of it. If the spring is cracked or missing or has lost tension, the pad can move back and forth as much as 1/8”. Be sure the spring is in good condition. It goes on the trailing edge of the pad (towards the back of the car). If yours is missing, you can obtain them from most auto parts stores. All new pads come with the springs, but sometimes they are loose in the box and get lost before you ever buy the pads. Now for the outboard pad, which is usually the main culprit: The outboard pad is held to the caliper by a steel tang on the outer part of the pad, one on each end of it. The tangs are designed to clamp tightly around the caliper to hold it tight. They get loose as the tabs are (unknowingly) sometimes widened to ease installation of the pads onto the calipers. If the tangs are not clamped tightly to the caliper, a severe rattle will result. The best fix involves two things. The first is to make sure the tangs are as tight on the caliper as you can possibly get them. The best way to get them that way is to put the caliper with the pad attached into a press or large vise and press the tangs solidly against the caliper. If you don’t want to remove the caliper (and you probably won’t want to ), you can put the pad in a vise and bend the tabs so they will fit tightly on the caliper. Once you do this, you will find it nearly impossible to get the pads onto the caliper so, before you even try, take a grinder or a file and grind a 1/8” chamfer on the tang to allow it to make it across the sharp edge of the caliper. Make a trial fit to be sure it fits real tight and can not move in the caliper. Now remove the pad once more. Clean the mating surface inside the caliper with some coarse sandpaper or wire brush. Do the same to the part of the pad that rests against the inside of the caliper. Cover the back of the pad with some RTV Ultra Black or high temperature RTV gasket maker. Install the pads back into the calipers, then the assembly onto the spindle before the RTV sets up. Get in the car and push hard on the brake pedal to seat the pads into the RTV and caliper. (Make sure BOTH calipers are installed at the time you hit the pedal or you will be rebuilding the caliper that was not mounted). Now, go drive the car and heat up the brakes to cure the RTV and they will never rattle again. |
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