Non-Destructive Ball Joint Removal Tool
    Get a threaded rod connector. It is a piece of hex shaped stock about 3" long with threads inside both ends. I use one with 1/2" threads. These are available at Pep Boys or almost any hardware store. Then get two bolts that will thread into the ends of the connector. (You'll have to measure between the ball joints to see how much total length you need) Loosen the ball joint nuts about 4 turns each. Leave the nuts in place, just loose. Screw the bolts into the connector until the 3 pieces will just fit between the ball joint nuts previously loosened. With two wrenches, back the bolts out of the connector. As the bolts press against the ball joint nuts, the ball joints will be pressed out of their holes, one at a time. If only wanting to remove upper, do not loosen lower nut.
    This "tool" is cheaper than a pickle fork type "that ruins the boots" and works better.  (Idea for this tool courtesy of my friend Gail Mainard, aka Mr. Secretary, who is the original owner of a 70 fastback.  He replaces his ball joints every 100,000 miles whether they need it or not, and I know he has done them at least twice.)







SUSPENSION


Upper A-Frame Bushing Rebuild
When you remove the 3/4" nuts from inside the engine compartment, retrieve the alignment bushings from each of the 4 bolts (under the fender).  Keep track of which ones went where and then put them back in their original locations when you reassemble.  Tighten the 3/4" nuts very tight and they won't come loose.  The real challenge is getting the new bushings screwed into place with the shaft centered exactly between the bushings and also not putting the bushings in a real tight bind by torqueing the large threaded bushing into the a-frame until it feels tight.  The bushings will likely NOT tighten up in the a-frame without bending the sides of the a-frame towards each other.  I tighten them until they are all the way in, but not necessarily tight.  Then tack-weld every other flat on the hex of the bushing to the a-frame to keep them from backing out.  IF YOU DON’T DO THAT, THE BUSHINGS WILL EITHER WEAR VERY RAPIDLY OR THE BUSHINGS WILL UNSCREW FROM THE ARM. (That is not a good thing).  Before putting the bushings onto the shaft, take a die grinder with a 1/16" wide cutoff wheel and cut a groove from the end of the shaft, across the threads, cutting slightly deeper than the root diameter of the threads, then into the o-ring sealing area.  Do this only on the BOTTOM of the shaft.  If you check the physics of it all, that side is never loaded, so it won't cause any additional wear.  Deburr the slotted area.  That slot achieves two things.  1. It allows the grease to have a path so it can reach EVERY thread on the shaft.  Without it, the grease you pump in with your grease gun only gets to the first couple of threads, leaving the rest to give a SQUUEEEEKKK every time you hit the speed bump pulling into the local cruise night.  and 2: It gives the grease a pathway to leak (slightly) past the o-ring so it doesn't hydraulically blow out the o-ring when you set the car back on the ground as the threaded bushing turns on the shaft, decreasing the volume of the area where the incompressible grease resides.  Nothing worse than watching your brand new o-ring come oozing out from inside the bushing when you lower the car.  Before you let the car down, shoot the bushings full of grease, then remove all 4 zerk fittings.  Let the car down slooowwwly and then bounce the front end up and down as much as you can.  Now, reinstall the zerks and your bushings are properly greased with plenty of, but not too much, grease.





MustangSteve’s Law
Of Automotive Repair Or Restoration…


Any automotive repair or restoration project will cost twice as much and take twice as long as originally planned, even after careful prior consideration of MustangSteve’s Law.








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Ball Joint Removal Tool (click to see larger image)